Modelos de morfodinámica de playas
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.4995/ia.1995.2665Palabras clave:
Ingeniería del agua, Ingeniería civil, Ingeniería hidráulicaResumen
Esta monografía presenta el estado del arte de los modelos conceptuales de evolución morfodinámica de las playas. El objetivo de estos modelos es relacionar las condiciones ambientales (oleaje y mareas, tipo de sedimento), con las formas tridimensionales y la dinámica de las playas. En primer lugar se presenta los modelos conceptuales de Wright y Short (1984), desarrollados a partir de observaciones en playas micromareales. A partir de dichos modelos se expone el concepto de estado modal de una playa y la relación existente entre los estados de playa y el parámetro adimensional de caída de grano, que permite ligar las variaciones del oleaje y tipo sedimento con la evolución de los estados de playa. Por último, se introduce el efecto de la carrera de marea, siguiendo la investigación de Masselink y Short (1993). Como resultado, el modelo conceptual de evolución morfodinámica, presentado por Wright y Short (1993) permite determinar la distribución de estados de playa en función de la distribución del parámetro adimensional de caída del grano y de la carrera relativa de marea.Descargas
Citas
Abele, R.W. jr., (1977). Analysis of Short-Term Variation in Beach Morphology and Concurren Dynamic Processes) for Summer and Winter Periods. 1971-72. Plum Island, Massachusetts. Mise. Rep. U.S. CERC, No 77-5, pp. 101. https://doi.org/10.5962/bhl.title.47168
Aubrey, D.G., Inman, D.L. and Nordstrom, C.E., (1976) Beach Profiles at Torres Pine. California. Proc. Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng. Honolulú, pp. 1297-1311. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v15.75
Davies, J.L., (1964). A Morphogenic Approach to World Shorelines. Zeitschrift für Geomorphology. v. 8, Mortensen Sonderheft, pp. 127-142.
Davis, R.A. and Fox, W.T. (1971). Four Dimensional Model of Beach and Inner Nearshore Sedimentation. Journal of Geology. v. 80, pp. 484- 493. https://doi.org/10.1086/627769
Davis, R.A. and Fox, W.T. (1972). Coastal Processes and Nearshore Sand Bars. Jour. Sed. Petrology. v. 42, pp. 401-412. https://doi.org/10.1306/74D72568-2B21-11D7-8648000102C1865D
Davis, R.A. and Mayes, M.O., (1984). What is a Wave-Dominated Coast?. Mar. Geology, v. 60, pp. 313-329. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90155-5
Dean, R.G., (1973). Euristic Models of Sand Transport in the Surf Zone. Proc. Conf. on Engineering Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Syney, N.S.W., pp. 208-214.
Fox, W.T. and Davis, R.A. (1974). Beach Processes on the Oregon Coast. ONR Tech. Rep. No. 12. Contract 388-092, 81 pp.
Hiño, M. (1975). Theory of Formation of Rip Current and Cuspidal Coast. Proc. 14th Int. Conf. on Coastal Eng, Copenhagen, pp. 901-919. https://doi.org/10.9753/icce.v14.52
Huntley, D.A. and Bowen, A.J. (1975). Comparison of the Hidrodynamics of Steep and Shallow Beaches. Nearshore Sediment Dynamics and Sedimentation. Hails, J. and Carr, A. ed., Whiley Science, London, pp. 69-109.
Masselink, G. and Short, A.D., (1995). The Effect of Tide Range on Beach Morphodynamics and Morphology: A Conceptual Beach Model.Jour. of Coastal Res. 9 - 3, pp. 785-800.
Owens, E.H. (1977). Temporal Variations in Beach and Nearshore Dynamics. Jour. Sed. Petrology. v. 47, pp. 168-190. https://doi.org/10.1306/212F7121-2B24-11D7-8648000102C1865D
Sasaki, T. and Horikawa, K. (1975). Nearshore Current System on a Gently Sloping Botton. Coastal Engineering in Japan. v. 18, pp. 123-142. https://doi.org/10.1080/05785634.1975.11924205
Short, A.D. (1979). Three Dimensional Beach-Stage Model. Jour. Geology. v. 87, pp. 553-571. https://doi.org/10.1086/628445
Sonu, CJ. and Young, M.H. (1970). Stochastic Analysis of Beach Profile Data. Proc. 12th Int. Conf. Coastal Engineering. Washington D.C. pp. 1341-1362. https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872620285.083
Sonu, CJ. and van Beek, J.L. (1971). Systematic Beach Changes on the Outer Banks, North Carolina. Journal of Geology. v. 79, pp. 416-425. https://doi.org/10.1086/627649
Sonu, CJ. (1973). Three Dimensional Beach Changes. Journal of Geology. v. 81, pp. 42-46. https://doi.org/10.1086/627806
Sonu, CJ. and James, W.R. (1973). A Markov Model for Beach Profile Changes. Jour. of Geophys. Res. v. 78, pp. 1462-1471. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC078i009p01462
Winant, C.D., Inman, D.L. and Nordstrom, C.E., (1975). Description of Seasonal Beach Changes Using Empirical Eigenfunctions. Jour. Geophys. Res., v. 80, pp. 1979-1986. https://doi.org/10.1029/JC080i015p01979
Wright, L.D. and Thom, B.G. (1977). CoastalMorphodynamics. Progress y Physical Geography. v. 1, pp. 412-459. https://doi.org/10.1177/030913337700100302
Wright, L.D., Chappell, J., Thom, B.G., Bradshaw, M.P. and Cowell, P., (1979). Morphodynamics of Reflective and Dissipative Beach and Inshore Systems: Southeastern Australia. Mar. Geology, v. 32, pp. 105-140. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(79)90149-X
Wright, L.D., Guza, R.T. and Short, A.D., (1982a). Dynamics of High-Energy Dissipative Surf Zone. Mar. Geology, v. 45, pp. 41-62. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(82)90179-7
Wright, L.D., Nielsen, P., Short, A.D. and Green, M.O., (1982b). Morphodynamics of a Macrotidal Beach: Broome. Western Australia. Univ. of Sydney. Dep. of Geography. Coastal Studies Unit Tech. Rep. No. 82/1 pp. 53. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(82)90063-9
Wright, L.D. and Short, A.D., (1984). Morphodynamic Variability of Surf Zones and Beaches: a Synthesis. Mar. Geology, v. 56, pp. 93-118. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90008-2
Wright, L.D., Short, A.D. and Creen, M.O., (1985). Short-Term Changes in the Morphodynamic States of Beaches and Surf Zones: and Empirical Predictive Model. Mar. Geology, v. 62, pp. 339-364. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(85)90123-9
Wright, L.D., Nielsen, P., Shi, N.C. and List, I.H., (1986). Morphodynamics of a Bar-Trough Surf Zone. Mar. Geology, v. 70, pp. 251-285. https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(86)90005-8
Descargas
Publicado
Cómo citar
Número
Sección
Licencia
Esta revista se publica bajo una licencia de Creative Commons Reconocimiento-NoComercial-CompartirIgual 4.0 Internacional